Clare Lopeman
The Day of the Jacquard: A Poetic and Cryptic Shade of Resistance
Keywords
— Fashion
— Cryptography
— Political
— Poetical
— Autoethnography
Abstract
Historically, fashion has always been a signifier, a tangle of linguistics, a performance of values, positionality, power, politics and symbolism. The aim of this research is to propose a different space within these paradigms that plays a new role, recasting the signifier and the signified while centering expressions of self and soul as an empowered, emboldened force.
The research proposes a form of cryptic couture, an Emotional Atelier where bespoke fashion and textile practices embody and encrypt personal values, philosophies and poetics as empowering, talismanic ciphers for the self. Contradictory perceptions and disruptions are at play with private expressions felt and embodied rather than seen or performed. Various design scales facilitate different registers of expressions and distillations that oscillate between conspicuous and inconspicuous, as illusion and in plain sight.
Having left Russia in 2022 after 14 years, such contexts speak to the cultural dissonance of life as a British citizen in Post-Soviet Moscow, underpinning complex perspectives on identity, censorship and surveillance amidst geopolitical shifts and reoccuring cold war narratives.
This practice-based research explores methods of autoethnography, cryptography, fashion and textile design to propose a crafted library of wearable poetics, an experimental edition to create a framework for critical speculation.
This research entices interdisciplinary debate on preferable future scenarios and the potential of an Emotional Atelier as a speculative tool and alternative consumption model amidst the climate emergency, and alongside technological developments such as AI and the decentralised web.
Introduction
This study falls within a charged moment in history, a world order shifting in unpredictable ways forming extraordinary, cataclysmic paradigms (Tisdall, 2022). The political, poetical and contextual realms that emerge from current geopolitical shifts and reoccuring Cold War narratives (Tan, 2023), throw down the gauntlet for innovative, empathic design as an empowering and resistant force.
These contexts form the central research question: How might fashion and textile design shape a bespoke, embodied form of resistance and recuperation?
Amidst the macro perspectives, this research aims to illuminate an intimate, empowering human centered experience of agency and expression through fashion and textile design practices. To animate personal voice, values and emotion that aim to capture the palpable poetics of privacy with ‘oneself as a site of enquiry’ (Fletcher, 2022) while expressing narratives that hold a private relationship to fidelity as a heroic act.
Through a crafted, bespoke practice that speaks to Wiggenstien’s convergence of ethics and aesthetics (Christopher Pinney and Roger Sansi-Roca, 2015), the practice will focus on intersections between autoethnography, cryptography and fashion and textile as catalysts for resistance and recuperation.
This is explored through three interconnected essays: 1. Political and Poetical, 2. Ethereal Second Skin and 3. Emotional Atelier: Proposing a Library of Wearable Poetics. These essays examine the context through different lenses, punctuated with practice-based research that aims to explore the question posed.
Research Methods: Context Diagram 1 (Clare Lopeman, 2023)
Research Methods: Context Diagram 2 Expanded (Clare Lopeman, 2023)
Thesis Diagram of Practice-Based Research 1: The Day of the Jacquard: A Poetic and Cryptic Shade of Resistance (Clare Lopeman 2023)
Thesis Diagram of Practice-Based Research 2 Expanded: The Day of the Jacquard: A Poetic and Cryptic Shade of Resistance (Clare Lopeman 2023)
Biography
Clare Lopeman is a British designer, researcher and educator with over 20 years of pedagogical and professional experience both nationally and internationally.
She is best known for her dynamic, graphic collections that explore the creative tensions and intersections across cultural histories, archives and political ideologies. Inspired by French couture practices and their influences behind the Iron Curtain, Clare’s collections have been described by Susie Lau as Spying through English Eyes and featured in Fashion Theory, The Journal of Dress, Body and Culture, The Guardian, i-D, The New York Times, The Pop, Style Bubble and The Telegraph.
Clare’s current Research interests propose The Emotional Atelier as a bespoke, embodied form of empowerment and resistance, exploring speculative couture within a future fashion system.
Soviet pattern map, pull out edition from ‘Siluette’ (Tallinn Model House Magazine, 1973)
Clare Lopeman (2023) Soviet Pattern Archive Reconstruction, Transposition Cipher of May Sarton’s Epigraph in ‘The Russia House’ (John Le Carre, 2020: iix) [Digital].
Clare Lopeman (2023) May Sarton’s Epigraph in ‘The Russia House’ (John Le Carre, 2020: iix) [Jacquard Weave in Boucle, Cashwool & Silk].
Clare Lopeman (2023) Poetic Life Writing Practices 2: A View to A Chill: The Last Dawn with Caesar Cipher, Version 1 [Jacquard Weave in Cashwool and Silk].
(Left) Francis Bacon’s Bilteral Cipher, illustrated by William F. Friedman (The Baconian Bilateral Cipher - NYPL Digital Collections, 1916), (Right) (Clare Lopeman, 2023) Toile in Process Spelling ‘HERO’ from May Sarton’s Epigraph in ‘The Russia House’ (John Le Carre, 2020: iix) using Bacon’s Biliteral Cipher. Half Scale, Calico.
Clare Lopeman (2023) Developing Sculptural Enigmas, Ariel View, Bacon’s Biliteral Cipher Spells ‘HERO’
Clare Lopeman (2023) Developing Sculptural Enigmas, Toiles in Process, Bacon’s Biliteral Cipher Spells ‘HERO’
Clare Lopeman (2023) Poetic Life Writing Practices 1: An Illusion Cast in Plain Sight with Caesar Cipher [Cashwool, Silk].
Clare Lopeman (2023) Poetic Life Writing Practices: 3: ‘A View to a Chill’: Jacquard Loom Dialogues & Redaction 1 [Digital]
Clare Lopeman (2023) Poetic Life Writing Practices: 3: ‘A View to a Chill’: Jacquard Loom Dialogues & Redactions [Digital]
Clare Lopeman (2023) May Sarton’s Epigraph in ‘The Russia House’ (John Le Carre, 2020: iix) Caesar Cipher [Jacquard Weave in Cashwool, Worsted Wool, Metallic Threads & Silk].
Clare Lopeman (2023) May Sarton’s Epigraph in ‘The Russia House’ (John Le Carre, 2020: iix) Caesar Cipher [Jacquard Weave in Cashwool, Worsted Wool & Silk].
Clare Lopeman (2023) May Sarton’s Epigraph in ‘The Russia House’ (John Le Carre, 2020: iix) Caesar Cipher [Jacquard Weave in Cashwool, Metallic Thread, Worsted Wool & Silk].
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